Island Peak is one of the best opportunities to climb a peak over 6000m and take your mountaineering skills to the next level.
Island Peak is one of the best opportunities to climb a peak over 6000m and take your mountaineering skills to the next level.
Island Peak is one of the best opportunities to climb a peak over 6000m and take your mountaineering skills to the next level.
Island Peak is
a spectacular peak amid the giants of the Himalaya. It is known by the locals
as Imja Tse. It derived its name as it rises like an island in the middle of
Lhotse/Nuptse South Wall to the north and Baruntse to the south. Island Peak
along with Mera Peak offer some of the best opportunities for advanced beginner
and intermediate climbers to take on a challenging technical ice climb above
6000m/20,000 feet. The summit of Island Peak offers stunning views of both
Ama Dablam and Makalu. The route to the summit is based on the route used
by Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing in 1953 when they climbed Island Peak as a
training peak.
To reach the summit of Island Peak you will be climbing above the snow
line using ice axe, crampons, ropes and other climbing equipment. Prior
experience though not essential, is certainly an advantage.
Although the peak is over 6000m it is regarded as a 'trekking peak' as there
is only a short climbing section of around 8 hours and they require more skill
and often also height in terms of altitude. There are numerous smaller peaks in
the Himalayas that can be successfully climbed by people without much prior
experience of climbing. Unfortunately, calling them 'trekking peaks' has led
many to believe that there is no difficulty involved. This is not the case.
Anything involving the use of ropes, crampons, climbing gear, climbing skill,
snow gullies etc can be difficult, even if it is just for one day. Below the
snow many sections are rocky and steep and can be very slippery at times. Some
places are more like a scramble. Once above the snow line you will encounter
ice and snow and rock. There is a 300 metre ice headwall to the summit ridge
followed by an exposed summit ridge about 300 metres long which is
narrow.
The scenery on this trek is spectacular and the route heads up via Namche
Bazaar and then deviated towards the village of Dingboche. From Dingboche,
Island Peak is clearly seen at the top of the Chukkung valley as a pyramid of
ice and rock.
If you are looking for answers to specific questions, read here or go here to see
some of our blog posts
Google Earth .KMZ file
Day-1: Arrive Kathmandu
Arrival and transfer to Hotel.
Day-2: Guided Sightseeing
Guided sightseeing around Kathmandu Valley.
Day-3: Flight: Kathmandu (1,310m) - Lukla (2,840m). Trek to Phakding (2,610m).
Our early morning hike to begins with a flight into Lukla - is a lifetime experience, in itself. The airfield is on a slope and the difference between the two ends of the runway is about 460 meters! You will land on an airstrip built by Sir Edmund Hillary and the Sherpas in the mid-1960s. After meeting with guides and porters and a short break for tea we hike away from Lukla towards Everest base camp for a few hours along the Dudh Kosi River to Phakding 2,610m. Once you have trekked through the small village of Ghat (2550m), Phakding is a short walk away.
Day-4: Phakding (2,610m) Namche bazaar (3,440m).
After leaving Phakding the path takes us through a magnificent forest of rhododendron, magnolia trees and giant fir trees alongside the Dhud-Kosi river through small villages like Bekar and Monju. You will crisscross over the river a few times on high suspension bridges until you eventually come to the Sagarmatha Check Point where your permits needs to be checked. The climb then goes downhill to the river and then all the way back up to Namche. The trail heads up through blue pine forests and as you climb there are rhododendron trees which bloom in Spring time. Namche is the largest Sherpa village and is the unofficial capital of the Khumbu, gateway to the high Himalayas. This relatively small town is a bustling tourist zone and trading hub literally is perched on a sloping hill. It is surrounded on all sides by mountains, from Thamserku to Kongde Ri. Trekkers heading to Mt. Everest, Gokyo, Island Peak and many other destinations for both trekking and expedition, have at least two nights stopover in Namche to acclimatise.
Day-5: Namche bazaar (acclimatisation 3,440 m)
We will spend time here on short walks to acclimatise. Although it says acclimatisation, this means you need to walk for the principle of climb high and sleep low, meaning we gain altitude, then descend again to sleep low, enabling our bodies to better adjust to the altitude. A slow and steady pace with adequate time for acclimatisation is key to success. So we hike up to Everest View hotel for just that, a view of Mt Everest, assuming the weather is clear.
Day-6: Trek from Namche to Tengboche (3,860m)
With incredible views of the Thamserku we steadily descend to the Imja Khola where we see a series of water driven prayer wheels at the little river spot of Pungi Tanga. After a lunch we begin the slow long steep climb to the famous Tengboche Monastery (3,860m) - one of the most beautiful places in the world. Apart from natural scenery mountain views, many festivals take place here, such as Mani Rimdu festival. This festival performed at the monasteries in Tengboche, Chiwang, and Thame. This sacred ceremonies held for nineteen days; culminating in a 3-day public festival. Lamas and monks dress in colorful attire with elaborate and dance to the victory of Buddhism over Bon. We will get amazing views of Mt. Ama , meaning Mother's Charm Box. According to legend, Lama Sange Dorjee, who came from Tibet's Rongbuk Monastery, founded Thyangboche Monastery in the 17th century. Thyangboche was destroyed by an earthquake in 1933, rebuilt and again badly damaged by a fire in 1989. Construction of the present monastery was completed in 1992. We may continue down to Deboche for the night where it is warmer and accommodation options better. 
Day-7: Tengboche to Dingboche (4,410m)
Continuing up the Imja Khola valley, we hike towards Dingboche (4,410). The route is easier wth a lot less steep ascents than on Namche or Tengboche trek. The terrain becomes like a tundra of grasses and vast open plains as the opens up ahead of you. Dingboche is the highest permanent Sherpa settlement in the region and also lies on the Island Peak.
Day-8: Dingboche to Lobuche
We have a gentle climb away from Dingboche above the Pheriche valley. After ascending up a small ridge we contour around the base of Khumbu Glacier before climbing for about two hours up Thokla Pass for about 210m in altitude gain. At the top of the are several memorial sites with endless strands of prayer flags dedicated to Himalayan climbers who lost their lives in pursuit of their climbing dreams. We then continue alongside the terminal moraine to Lobuche (4,930m).
Day-09: Lobuche to Gorakshep (5,140m) to Everest Base (6-8 hrs).
Our distance is quite far as we walk past Gorekshep and continue to basecamp Everest itself. We then retrace our steps from base camp to Gorek Shep for our night stop. If there is a chance of clear weather in the afternoon we may ascend Kala Patthar instead and watch the sunset though what we do will be a decision with the group and guide. Overnight Lodge.
Day-10: Hike up to Kala Patthar (5,545m) return to Dingboche.
After climbing Kala Patthar for early more sunrise views across Everest, you retrace your steps to Gorekshep, down to Lobuche and then head to Dingboche (4,410m)
Day-11-Dingboche to Chhukung (4730m).
From Dingboche, we then head east into the Chhukhung Valley Lhotse. From here you will also have magnificent views of the incredible Amadablam (6856 m.), probably the most photographed mountain in Nepal.
Day-12: Island Peak Base Camp
Today, we climb along the Imja Khola to Island peak base camp, a pleasant site by a small lake with fine views of the Lhotse Glacier and Nuptse-Lhotse wall. You will reach the Base Camp of Imja Tse today. Once camp has been set up you will be free to get your climbing gear in order and get organized for your ascent of the peak tomorrow.
Day-13: Climbing Island Peak Summit to a height of 6160m
You will start early for the summit climb. The going gets difficult once you reach the bottom of the steep icefall below the summit. Great care and caution must be exercised while climbing the wall to emerge on the ridge leading to the summit. After the summit of Island Peak, you will descend back down to Base Camp and Chhukhung.
Day-14:Contingency
Day-15: Contingency
Day-16: Trek to Namche (3,440m) (4 hrs).
The trail today will descend quite steeply as we head back down towards Namche.
Day-17: Namche to Lukla (2,840m) (7 hrs).
Trek further to the mountain airstrip at Lukla to catch your return flight to Kathmandu . Weather permitting your crew might prepare a farewell treat for you. You would be expected to join in the singing and the dancing!
Day-18: Flight: Lukla - Kathmandu (1,310m).
Day-19: Free at leisure
Day-20: Depart Kathmandu
End of services
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